Hair relaxer cream

ABSTRACT

A highly alkaline, no-base hair relaxer cream composition is disclosed which is phase-stable on ageing. A composition of this invention is a highly alkaline cosmetic cream base that may be used directly as a no-base hair relaxer or as a no-lye cream that may be converted for use as a no-base, no-lye hair relaxer by admixture with an aqueous activator solution. A method for preparing such a phase-stable no-base hair relaxer cream composition is also disclosed.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is a division of co-pending application Ser. No.486,538 filed Feb. 28, 1990, now U.S. Pat. No. 5,068,101, which is adivision of Ser. No. 399,385 filed Aug. 25, 1989, now U.S. Pat. No.4,950,485 which is a continuation of Ser. No. 173,318 filed Mar. 25,1988, now abandoned.

TECHNICAL FIELD

This invention relates to the straightening or relaxing of hair, and inparticular to highly alkaline compositions that are phase-stable onageing.

BACKGROUND ART

Aqueous highly alkaline hair relaxing or straightening compositions areknown in the art. These compositions usually have a highly alkaline pHof about 12 to about 14 due to the presence of an alkaline material,such as water-soluble alkali or alkaline earth hydroxide or an organicchemical base such as guanidine, guanidine hydroxide or quaternaryammonium hydroxide.

Modern highly alkaline hair relaxers are preferably of the type commonlycalled "no-base" hair relaxers. The term "no-base" means that the scalpneed not be coated with a protective oleaginous base such as petrolatum,mineral oil and lanolin, before applying the highly alkaline hairrelaxer.

One type of no-base hair relaxer formulation contains as the active hairstraightening agent an alkali metal hydroxide, typically a caustic base,such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. When a relatively lowactive level of about 1.5 to about 2.5 weight percent of caustic base isused, the protective base is applied only to the hairline to protect theskin around the forehead, ears and neckline. Such no-base formulationspreferably have some of the protective oleaginous material emulsified inan aqueous composition, and are supplied in a "single product" kit.

A preferred and more recently developed type of no-base hair relaxerformulation is commonly called a "no-lye" hair relaxer. With a no-base,no-lye relaxer, a protective base need not be applied to the scalp andmay not need to be applied to the hairline. The term "no-lye" means thatthe active hair straightening agent is an organic chemical base insteadof caustic base. In commercial practice, the relatively strong organicchemical base, guanidine is usually present in the form of guanidinehydroxide. However, guanidine hydroxide is not generally stable for longperiods in aqueous solutions. Consequently, it must be prepared freshjust before using.

Guanidine hydroxide is generally prepared by reacting an inorganicchemical base such as an alkaline earth hydroxide with an aqueoussolution of a salt of the strong organic chemical base guanidine wherethe anion of this salt is capable of being precipitated by the cation ofthe alkaline earth hydroxide. In commercially available products of thistype, the guanidine hydroxide is generally prepared using guanidinecarbonate and calcium hydroxide.

When such a no-lye hair relaxer is commercially used, the product issupplied as a two-part kit. One part contains the guanidine carbonate insubstantially liquid form and is commonly called the "activator." Theother part contains relatively high amounts of about 4 to about 7percent calcium hydroxide emulsified in a cosmetic cream base. Prior tousing, the consumer or beautician mixes the cream and activator portionsof the kit together. The resulting no-lye hair relaxer is thenrelatively promptly (preferably within 24 hours) applied to the hair.

For convenience, the term "no-lye cream base" as used herein means thecosmetic cream base portion of the foregoing kit containing alkalineearth hydroxide. The term "activator" means the substantially liquidportion of the kit containing the organic chemical base, and the "no-lyehair relaxer" means the resulting admixture of the foregoing no-lyecream base and activator. The term "no-base hair relaxer cream," refersgenerally to a highly alkaline hair straightening product whethersupplied as a single product or as a two-product kit.

Some great strides have been made in formulating highly alkaline no-basehair relaxer compositions, such that proper hair shaft penetration bythe active alkaline material is achieved along with minimal scalp injuryto thereby improve safety. Also by the incorporation of conditioningagents, the straightened hair has a better feel after such a treatment.However, highly alkaline emulsion products are difficult to compound,require much care during preparation on a commercial scale, and separateor de-emulsify relatively quickly on ageing thereby limiting theircommercially useful lifetime.

Most no-base cream products are preferably aqueous emulsions in whichwater is the continuous phase, i.e., oil-in-water emulsions, becausethey are easier to rinse from the hair. Instability or de-emulsificationtherefore results in a destabilized cream product having two distinctlyvisible phases.

While such destabilized products may be used, they must be remixedbefore using in an attempt to assure the user that the activeingredients are at the proper levels in the portion being used. However,such mixing, even though done thoroughly by hand, does not, in fact,give the user consistent results with such products. Improper mixing canalso cause skin irritation or result in increased hair breakage. Productdestabilization and resulting consumer dissatisfaction are among thechief complaints in the industry.

The term "phase-stable" cream refers to an emulsion composition thatshows substantially no visible separation into distinct phases onageing. Thus, phase stability refers to physical stability and is notintended to refer to the chemical stability of the non-alkalineindividual ingredients against decomposition by or interaction with thealkaline material under highly alkaline conditions over a relativelylong lifetime.

Problems of instability are also caused by the presence of relativelyhigh amounts of water-insoluble oleaginous ingredients that must beco-emulsified with the alkaline material. Oleaginous materials, such aspetrolatum and lanolin are desirable in no-lye cosmetic cream bases tomaintain the benefits of a no-base procedure. But their water-insolublecharacter greatly decreases the chances of successfully formulating aphase-stable cream. These problems are magnified when a formula isscaled up for the production of commercial quantities.

Part of the foregoing problems were overcome in U.S. Pat. No. 4,390,033('033) and U.S. Pat. No. 4,237,910 ('910), both to our assignee, by theuse of certain lipophilic organically-modified hectorite clay gellants.The disclosures of the '033 and '910 patents are incorporated herein byreference. Those clay gellants were disclosed for stabilizing highlyalkaline no-base hair relaxer compositions containing relatively highamounts of oleaginous material against phase separation. Commercial hairrelaxer products embodying the principles disclosed in these patentshave been marketed.

However, compounding a phase-stable cream, even with the above disclosedhectorite clay gellant, requires considerable care to substantiallyuniformly disperse the disclosed hectorite clay gellant. In addition,relatively high amounts (about 8 to about 1 weight percent) of thehectorite clay gellant are generally required to achieve a relativelystiff viscous cream. For example, the '033 and '910 patents disclosethat at below about 2 weight percent of the hectorite clay gellant,little phase stability improvement was noted and the resulting creamswere relatively soft. Thus, while generally elegant relatively stiffviscous creams can be obtained by practicing the emulsion stabilizingprinciples taught in the '033 and '910 patents, the products arerelatively costly to manufacture commercially from the standpoints ofcosts for labor, materials and energy.

No-base hair relaxers are desirably formulated as emulsified viscouscreams so that once applied to the user's hair, they will not drip ontothe skin or into the eyes of the person receiving a hair straighteningprocedure. The cosmetic cream base portion of a no-lye hair relaxer mustalso mix easily with the activator solution without thinning to a softrunny cream. Additionally, an ideal no-base hair relaxer cream must beeasy to remove from the hair at the end of the straightening or relaxerprocedure.

The present invention provides such a phase stable cosmetic cream basefor use in no-base hair relaxer cream in which many of the abovedrawbacks in cost are substantially lessened or obviated while retainingthe ease of use benefits.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

A highly alkaline cosmetic cream base that is phase stable on ageing isdisclosed. The disclosed cosmetic cream base can be prepared to bedirectly usable as a no-base hair relaxer. Alternatively, a cosmeticcream base of this invention can be prepared as a no-lye cream baseconvertible for use as a no-base, no-lye hair relaxer by admixing itwith an aqueous activator solution. Thus, a highly alkaline cosmeticcream base of this invention can contain all or a part of the alkalinehair relaxing agent.

A cosmetic cream base of this invention is prepared as an aqueousoil-in-water emulsion. A sufficient amount of non-volatile alkalinematerial dissolved in the continuous water phase provides a pH of about12 to about 14 in the final hair relaxer and provides all or a portionof the hair-relaxing agent.

Surprisingly, useful stiff, viscous creams are achieved with relativelylow amounts of non-water components, based on the total weight of thecomposition calculated on a dry solids basis. More surprisingly, suchcreams that are phase-stable on ageing can be prepared at amounts of thephase-stabilizing hectorite clay gellants taught in the '033 and '910patents discussed earlier that ordinarily produced relatively softcreams with little stability improvement. Further surprisingly,substantially stiff, viscous phase-stable creams are achieved bypracticing the principles of this invention even in the absence of theforegoing clay gellants.

The term "phase-stable", as used herein, means that on ageing theemulsion does not de-emulsify, i.e., substantially no separation of theemulsion into distinct phases is visible over a relatively longcommercially useful lifetime in the container or jar. The term"commercially useful lifetime" means that no separation of the emulsioninto distinct phases is visible after storage for at least about oneweek upon accelerated ageing at an elevated temperature of about 45degrees C. (about 113 degrees F.) or for at least about four weeks atambient room temperature and preferably at least about 3 months.

Briefly described, the non-water components in a cosmetic cream basecomposition of this invention comprise, exclusive of the alkalinematerial, a lipophilic oleaginous material, a primary emulsifier that isa nonionic emulsifier comprising a mixture of fatty alcohols havingabout 12 to about 24 carbon atoms in the fatty carbon chain; anauxiliary emulsifier comprising a hydrophilic nonionic emulsifier, ananionic emulsifier, and an amphoteric or zwitterionic emulsifier; and apolyhydroxy compound having about 3 to about 6 carbon atoms.Additionally, non-water components can include a polymeric conditioningagent and a lipophilic modified hectorite clay gellant of the typedisclosed in the '033 and '910 patents.

The total amount of non-water components together with the alkalinematerial preferably make up no more than about 50 weight percent on adry solids basis of the total weight of the composition. An emulsifiedcream-based composition prepared according to the principles of thisinvention is stable against phase separation over a commercially usefullifetime as defined above.

Reference to weight percent throughout this specification is based onthe dry solids weight percent of the individual ingredient present withreference to the total weight of the cream composition.

The alkaline material is selected from the group consisting ofwater-soluble alkali metal hydroxide or alkaline earth hydroxide. In oneembodiment, the alkaline material is the sole hair relaxing agent, sothe cosmetic cream base is directly usable as a no-base hair relaxer.

For this purpose, the alkaline material is preferably sodium hydroxidepresent at about 1.5 to about 2.5 weight percent.

In another embodiment, the alkaline material provides part of the hairrelaxing agent and is convertible to a no-base no-lye hair relaxer. Forthis purpose, an alkaline earth hydroxide, preferably calcium hydroxide,is present at about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent to provide a no-lyecream base that is subsequently admixed with an aqueous activatorsolution. The term "activator" means a solution containing the salt of arelatively strong organic base with an anion capable of beingprecipitated by the ion of the alkaline earth under alkaline conditions.

A preferred highly alkaline, phase-stable cosmetic cream base of thisinvention comprises a continuous aqueous phase, a non-volatile alkalinematerial present at an amount of about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent;about 15 to about 35 weight percent of an oleaginous material, about 3to about 15 weight percent of a nonionic primary emulsifier comprised asdescribed above; about 0.05 to about 10 weight percent of an auxiliaryemulsifying agent comprising a hydrophilic nonionic emulsifier, ananionic emulsifier and an amphoteric or zwitterionic emulsifier thatbecomes anionic at alkaline pH; zero to about 5 weight percent of apolymeric quaternary nitrogen conditioning agent; about 0.1 to about 10weight percent of a water-soluble polyhydroxy compound having about 3 toabout 6 carbon atoms and zero to about 3 weight percent of alipophilic-modified hectorite clay gellant.

In one aspect, the method of preparing a stable no-lye cosmetic creambase of this invention comprises mixing and heating together asubstantially anhydrous mixture of the oleaginous material, the primarynonionic emulsifying agent, an auxiliary anionic emulsifying agent and,if present, the lipophilic-modified hectorite clay gellant at atemperature of about 80 degrees C. (about 176 degrees F.) for about 30minutes to form the oil phase of the composition. Water, the remainingemulsifiers and the alkaline material are mixed and heated to about 80degrees C. for about 15 minutes to form the water phase of thecomposition. The water phase is then slowly admixed with the oil phaseto form an oil-in-water emulsion. After continued mixing and maintenanceof the temperature of the resulting emulsion at about 80 degrees C. forabout 30 to about 45 minutes, a uniform smooth cream is formed. Thecream composition is then force cooled to about 25 degrees C. (about 77degrees F.). If desired, perfume can be added to the cooling creamcomposition at between about 55 to about 45 degrees C. (about 131 toabout 113 degrees F.). The cooled cream can then be homogenized, ifdesired, and packaged.

A particularly preferred no-lye cream base prepared by the foregoingmethod comprises, in the water phase, about 4 to about 7 weight percentof calcium hydroxide; about 0.1 to about 2 weight percentstearoamphoglycinate; about 1 to about 3 weight percent polyoxyethylene(75) lanolin; about 3 to about 8 weight percent propylene glycol and0.05 to about 5 weight percent of a quaternary homopolymer prepared bypolymerizing a diallyldimethylammonium salt. The oil phase comprisesabout 25 to about 30 weight percent of oleaginous material comprised ofa petrolatum-mineral oil mixture containing at least about 50 weightpercent petrolatum, about 6 to about 10 weight percent emulsifying waxprepared from a mixture of lipophilic fatty alcohols predominantlyhaving from about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms in the fatty chain, about0.1 to about 0.5 weight percent of polyoxyethylene (3) ether phosphate,and zero to up to about 2 weight percent of a lipophilic-modifiedhectorite clay gellant.

The foregoing no-lye cream base is preferably converted to a no-basehair relaxer by admixing it at about 3.5 to about 6 parts by weight withone part by weight of activator solution comprising about 25 to about 30weight percent guanidine carbonate in a thickened vehicle containing apolyhydroxy compound having 3 to about 6 carbon atoms.

One benefit of a phase-stable cosmetic cream base prepared according tothe principles of this invention is that problems leading to skinirritation and uneven hair relaxation due to inconsistent distributionof actives are substantially overcome. A particular advantage is thatthe cream portion of a no-lye hair relaxer containing relatively highamounts of high calcium hydroxide can be economically and easilyprepared on a commercial scale. Another advantage is that no-base hairrelaxer creams embodying the principles of this invention displaydesirable relatively long-term shelf stability on ageing.

Still further advantages and benefits will be apparent to those skilledin the art from the description, examples and claims which follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

It has now been found that aqueous highly alkaline cosmetic cream basecompositions can be formed which are phase-stable on ageing for acommercially useful lifetime. The term "highly alkaline", as usedherein, refers to a pH from about 12 to about 14, preferably to a pHfrom about 12 to about 13. This pH is achieved by the presence of analkaline material that is sufficiently water-soluble in the continuouswater phase to provide a highly alkaline pH.

The term "phase-stable" as described above refers to the physicalstability of the emulsified composition. As stated earlier, phase-stablecompositions defined herein are cosmetic cream bases that are relativelystiff viscous creams which do not visibly de-emulsify or separate onageing at ambient temperature for at least about four weeks or at about45 degrees C. (about 113 degrees F.) for at least about 1 week. Forpurposes of illustrating this invention, the foregoing time period isconsidered indicative of a commercially useful lifetime in the field.

In actual practice, however, it has been surprisingly found thatcompositions prepared according to this invention containing relativelylow amounts of non-water components remain phase-stable for at leastabout 3 to about 6 months, both at ambient room temperature and atelevated temperatures. These compositions thereby provide productshaving concentrations of active ingredients that are substantiallyconstant throughout their useful lifetimes.

The term "non-water components" refers to all ingredients, other thanwater. A "relatively low amount" means that the emulsion-formingingredients and the alkaline material present as part or all of thehair-relaxing agent together make up no more than about 50 weightpercent on a dry solids basis of the total cream composition. A"relatively stiff viscous cream" as used herein defines a product havinga Brookfield viscosity of about 100,000 to greater than about 900,000centipoise (cps), as measured with a model RVT Helipath spindle No. TErotating at 5 revolutions per minute (rpm) for one minute at about 25degrees C. (about 77 degrees F.).

A no-base, no-lye hair relaxer preferably contains as the hair-relaxingagent, a water-soluble alkaline caustic material that is preferably astrong organic base, such as guanidine hydroxide. This alkaline materialis made just before application of the composition to the hair by thereaction of guanidine carbonate with calcium hydroxide. In thisembodiment, calcium hydroxide is present in the emulsified no-lye creambase, and guanidine carbonate, in a separate aqueous activator solution,is combined with the emulsion just before use. Alternatively, theguanidine carbonate may be included in the emulsion and calciumhydroxide is added just before use in an aqueous suspension. Otheralkaline earth hydroxides, such as barium or strontium hydroxide may beused in place of calcium hydroxide to release free guanidine fromguanidine carbonate. Alkaline earth oxides may also be used, producinghydroxides when added to water.

The amount of guanidine in the final composition is from about 0.05 to0.8 molar, preferably from about 0.4 to 0.6 molar. Guanidineconcentrations within this range are obtained from guanidine carbonateconcentrations in the final mixture between about 0.031 and 0.38 molarand calcium hydroxide concentrations in the final mixture between about0.025 and 2.2 molar. In the emulsified composition prior to the additionof aqueous guanidine carbonate, the amount of calcium hydroxide isgenerally between about 0.1 and 10 weight percent, and preferablybetween about 4 and 7 weight percent.

Other organic bases that may be used in place of guanidine, includeN-methyl guanidine, dimethylaminoguanidine (sym. and asym.),acetamidine, dimethylaminoamidine, aminoamidine and acetamide. Theorganic base may be liberated from salts other than the carbonate salt,such as from a sulfate or sulfite salt. In general, the emulsifiedcomposition may contain a water soluble salt of a strong organic basewith an anion capable of being precipitated by an alkaline earth metalion under alkaline conditions.

Alternatively, a cosmetic cream base for use directly as a no-base hairrelaxing composition can contain a water-soluble alkaline causticmaterial which is capable of both bringing the pH of the composition toa value of about 12 to about 14, and acting as the sole hair relaxingagent. Alkali metal hydroxides, including sodium hydroxide, potassiumhydroxide and lithium hydroxide may be used as the water-solublealkaline caustic material. Sodium hydroxide is preferred and may bepresent in amounts from about 1 to about 3 weight percent of the totalcomposition, preferably from about 1.5 to about 2.5 weight percent.

In the case of a no-base, no-lye cream base, the physical stability ofthe cream portion of the product does not interfere with the formationof the active hair relaxing agent when the no-lye cream base is admixedwith the activator portion. For example, guanidine hydroxide can beformed in an admixture of a phase-stable cosmetic cream base containingcalcium hydroxide and an activator containing guanidine carbonate.However, the stability of the phase-stable cosmetic cream base mayeventually be overcome in the admixture by the presence of the freeorganic base, such as guanidine or guanidine hydroxide. Thus, aphase-stable no-lye cosmetic cream base convertible for use in a hairrelaxer is supplied in a separate container than the activator for atwo-part hair relaxer kit.

In compounding a cream base of this invention the oil phase is comprisedof the substantially anhydrous, lipophilic ingredients. These generallyinclude the oleaginous material, the primary nonionic emulsifier and ananionic emulsifier.

About 15 to about 35 percent of the highly alkaline cosmetic cream basecompositions of this invention are comprised of lipophilic oleaginousmaterial. The oleaginous material predominantly includes petrolatum,mineral oils and mineral jellies, but can also include lanolin, and likeunctuous emulsifiable materials. Particularly preferred is apetrolatum-mineral oil mixture where the petrolatum comprises at leastabout 50 weight percent, preferably between about 55 and about 65 weightpercent, of the weight of the mixture.

Useful petrolatum is available in several grades based upon bothviscosity, melting point and color. The Saybolt seconds universalviscosities (S.S.U) of these products range from between about 50 andabout 90 (50/90) S.S.U. at 210 degrees F. Preferably, a colorless or"white" product having a Saybolt viscosity of about 55/75 S.S.U. at 210degrees F. and melting points in the degree range of 135/140 F. and127/137 F. are used. Preferably, a grade that meets the standards of theUnited States Pharmacopeia (U.S.P.) is used.

Mineral oils useful herein are preferably U.S.P. grade white oils.Preferably, a colorless or "white" oil is used having Sayboltviscosities at 100 degrees F. of about 50/350 S.S.U. and specificgravities at 77 degrees F. of about 0.822 to about 0.895 (0.822/0.895).The materials having Saybolt viscosities of about 50/60 S.S.U. at 100degrees F. and specific gravities in the ranges 0.822/0.833 at 77degrees F. are preferred.

In addition, a mineral jelly compounded of white petrolatum, whitemineral oil and wax may also be used as an oleaginous material in thecompositions of this invention.

The oleaginous materials may be present at about 15 to about 35 weightpercent, preferably at about 25 to about 30 weight percent. However, thepercentage actually used in a product depends upon the desired productconsistency. For example, where a no-lye cream base is desired, theconsistency of the cream must permit it to be admixed with a liquidactivator. The resulting admixture must produce a no-base hair-relaxercream that is substantially free of lumps and that does not thin to arunny soft product.

For a no-lye cream base composition, the oleaginous material preferablycomprises a petrolatum-mineral oil mixture containing at least about 50weight percent petrolatum and present at about 25 to about 30 weightpercent of the total weight of the no-lye cream base.

The oleaginous material can include lipophilic-modified hectorite claygellants. It has been surprisingly found, however, that unlike priorcompositions, phase-stable, relatively stiff creams can be prepared withrelatively low amounts of up to about 3 weight percent, preferably of upto about 2 weight percent, of these clay gellants.

Where present, lipophilic hectorite clay gellants are those comprised ofhectorite clays modified with (1) a quaternary nitrogen-containingcompound such as stearalkonium chloride or quaterrium-18 which containsat least one long chain substituent having about 8 to about 20 carbonatoms on the quaternary nitrogen atom, (2) propylene carbonate, and (3)a non-polar organic liquid. Examples of such non-polar organic liquidsinclude but are not limited to mineral spirits, mineral oil, glycerides,such as castor oil, a mixture of lanolin oil and isopropyl palmitate,and the like. [Stearalkonium chloride and quaternium-18 are defined inthe CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd ed., published in 1982 byThe Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc., at pages 299 and267, respectively.]

Specific, useful lipophilic gellants which are commercially available asmastergels include: Bentone Gel MIO, comprised of mineral oil, propylenecarbonate and quaterium-18 hectorite; Bentone Gel CAO, comprised ofpropylene carbonate, castor oil and stearalkonium hectorite; BentoneGels SS71 and S130, comprised of mineral spirits (ligroin or petroleumspirits having a boiling range of about 318 degrees-400 degrees F.),propylene carbonate and quaternium-18 hectorite; and Bentone GelLantrol, comprised of propylene carbonate, a mixture of lanolin oil(dewaxed lanolin) and isopropyl palmitate, and stearalkonium hectorite.The above hectorite gellants may be individually used, may beinterchanged, one for the other in a given composition, or may be mixedtogether in a composition.

The lipophilic-modified hectorites may be present in the no-lye creambase portion of a no-base hair relaxer of this invention from zero to upto about 3 weight percent, preferably up to about 2 weight percent, ofthe total composition prior to admixture with activator.

Nonionic emulsifying agents useful as the primary emulsifier, arepreferably emulsifying waxes that meet the standards of the NationalFormulary (N.F.) or British Pharmacopeia (B.P.) and can either be thenon-self-emulsifying or the self-emulsifying type. The term "emulsifyingwax" denotes solid nonionic emulsifiers known in the art that areprepared as a mixture of fatty alcohols having from about 12 to about 24carbon atoms, preferably predominantly lipophilic fatty alcohols havingfrom about 14 to about 20 carbon atoms. Self-emulsifying waxes aretypically prepared with an auxiliary hydrophilic emulsifier present. Thehydrophilic nonionic emulsifiers present in the primary nonionicemulsifier as part of the emulsifying wax are usually polyoxyethylenederivatives of fatty acid esters of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydride.Preferred are polysorbates which generally comprise mixtures of oleateor stearate esters condensed with ethylene oxide.

A preferred N.F. grade emulsifying wax is prepared from cetostearylalcohol containing a polyoxyethylene derivative of a fatty acid ester ofsorbitan. This material is known as Emulsifying Wax N.F. and is a creamywhite, wax-like solid which is freely soluble in ether, chloroform,alcohol and most hydrocarbon solvents, but is insoluble in water. Itmelts at a temperature between 48 degrees and 52 degrees C., has ahydroxyl value between 178 and 192, an iodine value not more than 3.5, asaponification value not more than 14, and a pH (in a dispersion of 3parts in 100 parts of water) between 5.5 and 7.0. Emulsifying Wax N.F.is commercially available from a number of suppliers. Exemplary andpreferred materials are sold under the name POLAWAX by Croda, Inc., NewYork, N.Y.; and LIPOWAX P by Lipo Chemicals, Inc., Paterson, N.J.

Other useful emulsifying waxes are commercially sold comprising balancedblends of lipophilic fatty alcohols (some distilled or double distilled)derived from fatty acids containing about 12 to about 24 carbon atomsand ethylene adducts thereof. Particularly preferred are emulsifyingwaxes containing about 14 to about 20 carbon atoms, more preferablyabout 16 to about 18 carbon atoms. Alternatively, the primary nonionicemulsifier can be a balanced blend of the individual lipophilic fattyalcohols, having about 14 to about 20 carbon atoms, more preferablyabout 16 to about 18 carbon atoms. Particularly useful fatty alcoholsinclude cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, tallow fatty alcohols and likesaturated monovalent linear alcohols obtained from vegetable sources,animal oils and fats.

Particularly preferred are tallow fatty alcohols manufactured and soldunder the trademark HYDRENOL D or DD by Henkel KGaA, Germany. Accordingto the manufacturer, these materials comprise zero-2 percent C₁₂ ; 3-7percent C₁₄ ; 25-35 C₁₆ ; 60-70 percent C₁₈ ; and zero to 2 percent C₂₀moieties; less than 1.2 percent hydrocarbons, less than 0.3 percentwater; and has an acid value of less than 0.1; a saponification value ofless than 1.2; an iodine value of less than 1; a hydroxyl value of210-220; and solidifies in the range of 48-52 degrees C. Anotherpreferred nonionic emulsifier is a fatty alcohol mixture containingcetyl and stearyl alcohols sold under the trademark TA1618F by TheProcter & Gamble Company Industrial Chemicals Divisions, Cincinnati,Ohio.

In the practice of this invention, the primary nonionic emulsifyingagent is generally present at about 3 to about 15 weight percent,preferably at about 5 to about 12, more preferably at about 6 to about10.

Anionic emulsifiers may be illustrated by polyoxyethylene oleyl etherphosphates having about 3 to about 20 oxyethylene groups, sodium laurylsulfate, and the stearic acid anion and the like. Polyoxyethylene (3)oleyl ether phosphate is particularly preferred. In compounding aphase-stable cream, an anionic emulsifier in substantially non-aqueousform is included in the oil phase at about 0.01 to about 1.0 weightpercent, preferably at about 0.1 to about 0.5 weight percent of thetotal composition.

The water phase of the cream composition generally contains therelatively more water-soluble auxiliary emulsifiers, amphoteric orzwitterionic emulsifiers and hydrophilic nonionic emulsifiers as well asa polyhydroxy compound having about 3 to about 6 carbon atoms, andpolymeric conditioning agent, where present. Amphoteric or zwitterionicemulsifiers that become anionic at alkaline pH are preferred. Azwitterionic emulsifier contains both cationic and anionic moieties inthe same molecule and includes amphoteric surface active agents.

Suitable amphoteric surfactants include alkylamphocarboxyproprionates,and alkylamphoglycinates having mono- or di-carboxyl groups derived fromfatty acids having about 10 to about 22 carbon atoms in the fatty alkylchain. Particularly preferred is stearoamphoglycinate, the CTFA name for2-heptadecyl-1-carboxymethyl-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazoliniumchloride, sold under the tradename Miranol DM by the Miranol ChemicalCompany, Inc. Additional amphoteric or zwitterionic emulsifiers includethe class of surface active agents having an aminopropionate structure,such as N-fatty alkyl beta propionic acid and alkali metal saltsthereof. Commercial materials having lauryl, myristyl, coco and tallowfatty alkyl groups are sold commercially under the tradename DERIPHAT byGeneral Mills Chemicals, Inc., Cosmedia Group, Minneapolis, Minn.

Amphoteric emulsifier can be present at about 0.01 to about 2 weightpercent, preferably at about 0.1 to about 1, more preferably at about0.2 to about 0.5 weight percent, dry solids basis.

Hydrophilic nonionic emulsifiers include polyoxyethylene derivatives offatty acid esters of sorbitol and sorbitol anhydride; polyethyleneglycol esters of fatty acids, polyoxyethylene ethers of fatty alcohols,polyethylene oxide-polypropylene oxide condensates and polyoxyethylenelanolin ethers, and the like. Particularly preferred is polyoxyethylene(75) lanolin.

Hydrophilic nonionic emulsifiers can be present at about 0.01 to about 8weight percent preferably at about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent, morepreferably at about 1 to about 3 weight percent.

The use of particular concentrations of the auxiliary emulsifiers can bevaried as desired to keep the make up of the total of the non-componentstogether, with the alkaline material at no more than about 50 weightpercent of the total composition. It has been found beneficial to useabout 0.05 to about 10 weight percent of auxiliary emulsifier, inclusiveof the anionic emulsifier.

In a preferred composition where about 0.01 to about 1 weight percentanionic emulsifier is present in the oil phase, the auxiliary emulsifiercan comprise up to about 9 weight percent of a mixture of a hydrophilicnonionic emulsifier, preferably polyoxyethylene (75) lanolin, and anamphoteric or zwitterionic emulsifier in the water phase, preferablystearoamphoglycinate.

Suitable polyhydroxy compounds include propylene glycol, glycerin,butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, sorbitol and the like. Particularlypreferred is propylene glycol. The polyhydroxy compounds can be presentat about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent, preferably at about 3 to about8 weight percent. Sorbitol is generally preferred as a component of theactivator solution for a no-lye hair relaxer.

When present, the polymeric conditioning agent is preferably aquaternary nitrogen polymer prepared by polymerizing adiallyldimethylammonium salt. Details concerning the preparation of thismaterial can be found in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,288,770 and 3,412,019. Thiscationic polymer is present at about 0.05 to about 5 weight percent,more preferably at about 0.1 to about 2 weight percent.

Homopolymers and copolymers of polydiallyldimethylammonium chloride areavailable in aqueous compositions sold under the trademark MERQUAT by E.M. Merck & Co. The homopolymer that is named polyquaternium-6 in theCTFA Dictionary and is trademarked MERQUAT-100 is particularlypreferred. However, a copolymer reaction product ofdimethyldiallylammonium chloride with acrylamide monomers, namedpolyquaternium-7 in the CTFA Dictionary and sold under the trademarkMERQUAT-550 can also be used. It is understood that a number of othercationic polymeric conditioning agents are commercially available andknown that can also be used, the disclosure of the preferred cationicpolymer is not intended to limit the scope of this invention.

The hair relaxer composition can also include cosmetic adjuvants, suchas auxiliary emollients, auxiliary thickening agents, perfumes,preservatives, and product colorants present in the cosmetic cream basecomposition, in the activator, or in both.

To prepare a highly alkaline cosmetic cream base composition of thisinvention, a relatively easy method using inversion emulsificationmethods is used. As practiced, the substantially anhydrous components ofthe oil phase are mixed together, including the hectorite clay gellantwhen present, by heating and agitating the mixture at about 80 degreesC. (about 113 degrees F.) for about 30 minutes or until a substantiallyhomogeneous uniform dispersion results.

In a separate vessel, the remaining non-water components, except sodiumhydroxide when present, are mixed with water to form the water phase.This mixture is heated and agitated at about 80 degrees C. for about 15minutes or until a substantially uniform solution results.

The bulk portion of the water phase is then slowly added with agitationto the oil phase at a rate sufficient to effect inversion tooil-in-water emulsion. Agitation is continued thereafter for about 30 toabout 45 minutes. The agitated mixture is then cooled to between about50 to about 45 degrees C. (about 122 and 113 degrees F.) at whichtemperature aqueous (50 weight percent solution) sodium hydroxide,adjuvants, perfume and the like, if present, are added. The mixture isdiluted to its final volume with deionized water if necessary. Themixture is then stirred, as necessary, for about an additional 15minutes to ensure homogeneity, or until a relatively stiff viscous creambase results. The cream is then force cooled to about ambienttemperature (about 25 degrees C. or about 72 degrees F.). On reachingambient temperature, the mixture can be homogenized by conventionaltechniques, such as by ultrasonic mixing.

In another method aspect, the polyhydroxy compound can be withheld fromthe water phase initially and added to the heated admixture of water andoil phase instead.

The preparation of no-base hair relaxer creams in which sodium hydroxideis the active hair-relaxing agent, is generally similar to that of ano-lye cream base, except for withholding the inclusion of the sodiumhydroxide until the emulsion is formed and cooled to between about 50and about 45 degrees.

Cosmetic cream bases, especially no-lye cream bases, prepared accordingto the above procedures surprisingly are stiff viscous creams having aBrookfield viscosity of at least about 100,000 to greater than about900,000 cps. Preferably, the viscosity is in a range of between about150,000 to about 800,000, more preferably between about 200,000 to about600,000. The creams maintain their viscosity even on accelerated ageingat about 45 degrees C. (about 113 degrees F.) as well as at ambient roomtemperature for as long as about 3 to about 6 months.

When guanidine is the water-soluble alkali hair-relaxing agent and theemulsified cream composition contains calcium hydroxide, or anotheralkaline earth hydroxide, it is necessary to blend the emulsifiedcomposition, just before application to the hair, with an activatorsolution. The activator comprises an aqueous solution of about 25 toabout 30 weight percent guanidine carbonate, preferably containing asmall amount of a polyhydroxy compound and a thickener. The emulsifiedcompositions are blended in proportions producing free guanidine orguanidine hydroxide in an amount within the limits disclosed above.

It has been surprisingly found that an admixture comprised of about 3.5to about 6 parts of a "no-lye" cosmetic cream base of this inventionwith one part of activator provides improved hair straightening wherethe aqueous activator solution comprises guanidine carbonate at about 28to about 30 weight percent, preferably about 29 weight percent, prior toadmixture. The reason for the improved hair straightening effect is notfully understood.

Particularly preferred in this regard, is an activator includingsorbitol at about 0.2 to about 0.5 weight percent, dry solids basis anda natural gum thickening agent at about 0.1 to about 0.3 weight percent.

When using the stable cosmetic cream bases of this invention in ano-base hair relaxers procedure, it is preferable that the person onwhose head the compositions will be used (the model) not wash her (orhis) hair for at least 24 hours prior to the relaxer treatment. Thispreference stems from the scalp protecting effect produced by themodel's own sebum secretions. In addition, while washing the hair,slight physical damage can occur to the scalp which can becomeaggravated by the alkaline material in the relaxer.

The model's hair is divided into four portions as delineated by theareas separated when hypothetical lines are drawn from ear-to-ear andfrom nose-to-backbone. Starting with the rear portions, the relaxercream is applied to the hair with the back or smooth side of a comb(opposite from the teeth). Care is taken to avoid putting thecomposition on the scalp and about 1/8-1/4 inch of the root end (lowerportion) of the hair shaft. This process takes about 8 minutes fortreatment of all the model's hair.

Each portion of the hair is then physically smoothed with the comb back.At this time in the treatment, the scalp and lower portions of the hairshafts are contacted with the relaxer cream. The smoothing step helps toensure adequate hair shaft penetration and softening by the relaxer andalso puts tension on the hair to help in straightening the hair. Thesmoothing step is then repeated to facilitate straightening. The totaltime for smoothing (both the initial and the repeat steps) normallytakes from about 5 to about 10 minutes, depending upon the hair lengthand thickness. Thus, at this point, the relaxer is on the head for about13 to about 18 minutes.

The relaxer is then thoroughly and rapidly removed from the hair byrinsing with water having a temperature of about 37 degrees C. (about 77degrees F.). The rinsing step is followed by a shampooing with anon-alkaline shampoo. The shampoo is preferably buffered on the acidside of neutral at about pH 4 to 6 so that residual alkali left in thehair or on the scalp is neutralized. This shampooing is usually repeatedtwo to three times.

After shampooing, the hair may be treated with a conditioner to improvewet combing and hair feel. When the conditioning relaxers of thisinvention are used, no extra conditioning step is needed. The hair maythen be set and dried in a desired coiffure as is known in the art.

In effect, the highly alkaline no-lye cosmetic cream base compositionsof this invention are of high water, low solids type. The followingExamples illustrate cream bases of this invention with generallypreferred ingredients and methods of preparation, but are not intendedto be limited thereby.

EXAMPLE 1 Phase Stable No-Lye Cream Base

The following compositions illustrate no-lye cream base compositionscontaining low amounts of clay gellant convertible for use as aguanidine based no-base hair relaxer by admixture with activator.

    ______________________________________                                                    Weight Percent, Dry Solid Basis of                                            Emulsified Cream Base                                             Components    A      B      C    D     E    F                                 ______________________________________                                        I. Oil Phase                                                                  Petrolatum    15     15     15   15    15   15                                (Note 1)                                                                      Mineral Oil   12     10     12   10    10   12                                (Note 2)                                                                      Emulsifying Wax N.F.                                                                        8      9      8    7     9    9                                 (Note 3)                                                                      Polyoxyethylene (3)                                                                         0.25   0.25   0.25 0.25  0.25 0.25                              Oleylether phosphate                                                          Modified Hectorite                                                                          2      2      2    2     2    1.5                               Clay Gellant                                                                  (Note 4)                                                                      II. Water Phase                                                               Water, deionized to                                                                         Q.S.   Q.S.   Q.S. Q.S.  Q.S. Q.S.                              100 percent                                                                   Calcium hydroxide                                                                           6.3    5      5    5     6    6                                 Polymeric quaternary                                                                        --     1.2    --   1.2   1    --                                nitrogen conditioning                                                         agent (Note 5)                                                                Amphoteric Emulsifier                                                                       0.37   0.37   0.37 0.37  0.5  0.25                              (Note 6)                                                                      Polyoxyethylene (75)                                                                        1.5    1.5    1.5  1.5   1.5  1.5                               lanolin (Note 7)                                                              Propylene glycol                                                                            5      5      5    5     6    4                                 III. Perfume  --      --    --   Q.S.  --   --                                ______________________________________                                         Note 1. White petrolatum having a melting point of 127/137 degrees F. and     a Saybolt viscosity at 210 degrees F. of 60/80 S.U.S. may be used.            Note 2. White mineral oil having a Saybolt viscosity at 100 degrees F. of     50/60 S.S.U. and a specific gravity in the range of 0.822/0.833 at 77         degrees F. may be used.                                                       Note 3. POLAWAX available from Croda, Inc. or LIPOWAX P available from        Lipochemical may be used.                                                     Note 4. A modified hectorite clay gellant sold by N.L. Industries, Inc.       under the trademarks Bentone Gel MIO, Bentone Gel CAO, Bentone Gel SS71,      Bentone Gel S130 and Bentone Gel Lantrol may be used.                         Note 5. A watersoluble quaternary nitrogencontaining polymer available        from Merck & Co., Inc. under the trademark Merquat 100 as a 40 percent        active aqueous solution may be used.                                          Note 6. Preferably stearoamphoglycinate available from the Miranol            Chemical Company, Inc. under the trademark Miranol DM as a 20 percent         active aqueous paste.                                                         Note 7. Available as 50 percent active in water under the trademark LANET     50 from the R.I.T.A. Corporation, Crystal Lake, IL.                      

The components of the oil phase are placed together in a heatablecontainer equipped with a propeller-type mixer, heated to about 80degrees C. and mixed for about 30 minutes or until a substantiallyuniform dispersion is formed. In a separate heatable container, thewater and remaining components of the water phase are placed and alsoprovided with a mixer. This admixture is heated to about 80 degrees C.and mixed for about 15 minutes.

The water phase is then added slowly with mixing agitation to the oilphase while maintaining the temperature at about 80 degrees C. Theresulting emulsion is maintained at this temperature under continuedagitation for about 30 to about 45 minutes and is then cooled to betweenabout 55 degrees C. and about 45 degrees C. at which point perfume, ifpresent, is added. The emulsion is again mixed for about 15 minutes andallowed to cool to form a substantially smooth cream base at about 45 toabout 35 degrees C. and is force cooled to about 25 degrees C. It isthen homogenized and packaged.

The cream bases are relatively stiff viscous compositions that do notseparate into distinct phases on ageing. For example, Cream Bases A-Dhad Brookfield viscosities at 25 degrees C. (Model RVT spindle model No.TE at 5 rpm for 1 minute) of about 200,000 to about 350,000 cps. Onageing at ambient room temperature, their viscosities appeared tostabilize at about 350,000 to about 525,000 cps, typically at about400,000 to about 480,000 cps.

The phase stability of Cream Base A was followed under acceleratedageing conditions at about 45 degrees C. for at least six months. Noseparation was observed.

EXAMPLE 2 Phase Stable No-Lye Cream Base

This example illustrates No-lye cream base compositions containing asthe primary emulsifier, a mixture of fatty alcohols having about 16 toabout 18 carbon atoms (C₁₆ -C₁₈).

    ______________________________________                                                    Weight Percent, Dry Solid Basis of                                            Emulsified Cream Base                                             Components    G       H        I       J                                      ______________________________________                                        I. Oil Phase                                                                  Petrolatum    15      15       20      15                                     Note 1 above)                                                                 Mineral Oil   10      10       14      10                                     (Note 2 above)                                                                C.sub.16 --C.sub.18 Fatty Alcohols                                                          9       9        7       8                                      (Note 8)                                                                      Polyoxyethylene (3)                                                                         0.25    0.1      0.5     0.25                                   Oleylether phosphate                                                          Modified Hectorite                                                            Clay Gellant  2       2.1      0.1     --                                     (Note 4 above)                                                                II. Water Phase                                                               Water, deionized to                                                                         Q.S.    Q.S.     Q.S.    Q.S.                                   100 percent                                                                   Calcium hydroxide                                                                           6.3     6.3      4       5.5                                    Polymeric quaternary                                                                        1.2     1.2      --      1.2                                    nitrogen conditioning                                                         agent (Note 5 above)                                                          Amphoteric Emulsifier                                                                       0.37    0.37     0.1     0.2                                    (Note 6 above)                                                                Polyoxyethylene (75)                                                                        1.5     1.5      1       1.5                                    lanolin (Note 7 above)                                                        Propylene glycol                                                                            5       5        8       5                                      III. Perfume  Q.S.    --       Q.S.    Q.S.                                   ______________________________________                                         Note 8. A fatty alcohol mixture containing cetyl and stearyl alcohols sol     under the trademark TA 1618F by Proctor & Gamble or a tallow fatty alcoho     sold under the trademark HYDRENOL D by Henkel KGaA, Germany may be used. 

The procedure of Example 1 is followed in preparing the compositions andin measuring Brookfield viscosity.

The Brookfield viscosity of Cream Base G was about 280,000 to about350,000 cps, and that of Cream Base II was about 250,000 to about400,000 cps. The viscosities of both creams bases stabilized on ageingat ambient temperature at between about 425,000 to about 500,000 withinabout a week.

EXAMPLE 3 Phase Stable No-Lye Cream Bases

This example illustrates no-lye cream bases that are stabilized usingEmulsifying Wax as the primary emulsifier and no hectorite clay gellant,but are otherwise generally prepared following the procedure of Example1.

    ______________________________________                                                     Weight Percent, Dry Solid Basis of                                            Emulsified Cream Base                                            Components     K      L       M    N     O                                    ______________________________________                                        I. Oil Phase                                                                  Petrolatum     15     15      15   15    15                                   (Note 1 above)                                                                Mineral Oil    12     12      12   12    12                                   (Note 2 above)                                                                Emulsifying Wax N.F.                                                                         9      8       7    7     9                                    Polyoxyethylene (3)                                                                          0.25   0.25    0.25 0.25  0.25                                 Oleylether phosphate                                                          II. Water Phase                                                               Water, deionized to                                                           100 percent    Q.S.   Q.S.    Q.S. Q.S.  Q.S.                                 Calcium hydroxide                                                                            5      5       5    5     5                                    Polymeric quaternary                                                                         1.2    --      --   1.2   --                                   nitrogen conditioning                                                         agent (Note 5 above)                                                          Amphoteric Emulsifier                                                                        0.37   0.37    0.37 0.37  0.37                                 (Note 6 above)                                                                Polyoxyethylene (75)                                                                         1.5    1.5     1.5  1.5   1.5                                  lanolin (Note 7 above)                                                        Propylene glycol                                                                             5      5       5    5     5                                    ______________________________________                                    

The Brookfield viscosity of freshly prepared Cream K was about 240,000cps to about 250,000 cps, increasing to between about 480,000 to about950,000 cps on ageing at ambient room temperature at about 2 to about 4weeks.

The Brookfield viscosities of freshly prepared Creams L-O ranged betweenabout 150,000 to about 300,000 cps and between about 350,000 and about750,000 on ageing at ambient room temperatures for about one week.

EXAMPLE 4 No-Base Hair Relaxer

Cream bases that are directly usable as a no-base hair relaxer can beprepared by substituting about 1 to about 2.5 weight percent sodiumhydroxide in the formula for Cream A of Example 1 in place of calciumhydroxide.

In preparing this hair relaxer cream, the procedure of Example 1 isfollowed, except that the sodium hydroxide is withheld from the waterphase. When the cream base has cooled to between about 50 and 45 degreesC., the sodium hydroxide is added, preferably as a concentrated aqueoussolution, before the perfume. To ensure homogeneity the cream is stirredabout another 15 minutes prior to adding the perfume.

EXAMPLE 5 Phase Stable No-Lye Cream Base

Cream Base G of Example 2 was prepared in a commercial scale quantityfollowing the general procedure of Example 1, except that propyleneglycol was initially withheld from the water phase. After the waterphase had been added and the heated emulsion reached about 75 to about80 degrees C., the propylene glycol was added while maintaining thetemperature. A viscous cream base was obtained at between about 40 andabout 35 degrees C.

EXAMPLE 6 No-Base No-Lye Hair Relaxer Cream

This example illustrates the conversion of no-lye cream base of thisinvention for use in a no-base no-lye hair relaxing procedure.

An aqueous activator (X) solution of guanidine carbonate was preparedcontaining about 28 to about 30 weight percent guanidine carbonate,about 0.2 to about 0.25 weight percent sodium alginate (as thickeningagent) about 0.35 weight percent, sorbitol (dry solids basis) andsufficient preservative.

One part of the activator (X) was mixed with about 3.5 to about 3.7parts of Cream Base G of Example 2 to provide a hair relaxer cream. Incommercial practice, a representative admixture of about 220 grams CreamBase G and about 60 g of the foregoing activator (X) containing about 29weight percent guanidine carbonate was particularly preferred as a hairrelaxer cream (HR-A).

Likewise Cream Base A of Example 1 can be converted to a hair relaxer(HR-B) by admixing one part of activator (X) with about 3.7 to about 6parts Cream Base A to provide a hair relaxer varying from "super" to"regular" strength.

EXAMPLE 7 No-Base No-Lye Hair Relaxer

In salon tests, hair relaxer HR-A of Example 6 gave relaxing orstraightening results that were equivalent to or superior to thoseobtained with a commercial no-base no-lye hair relaxer cream ofcomparable alkalinity stabilized with relatively high amounts ofhectorite clay gellant in accordance with the teachings of U.S. Pat.Nos. 4,390,033 and 4,237,910.

A salon test was made with 50 volunteer persons having medium to coarsecurly hair using a half-head comparison method. Each person received ahair relaxer procedure on one side with hair relaxer HR-A of Example 6and on the opposite side with commercial hair relaxer (C) prepared usingactivator (X) of Example 6 containing about 29 to about 30 weightpercent guanidine admixed with a commercial cream in the sameproportions as for HR-A. The hair relaxing procedure was followed byapplying a commercial neutralizing shampoo, using the same product onboth sides.

The hair relaxing or straightening effect of hair relaxer HR-A wasjudged equivalent. The consistency of hair relaxer HR-A was also judgedsubstantially more viscous than the hair relaxer C. This result wassurprising because the commercial cream was phase-stabilized with arelatively high amount of modified hectorite clay gellant in excess ofabout 12 weight percent and contained substantially the same amount ofcalcium hydroxide. Additionally, the HR-A cream was equivalent to orpreferred over the commercial hair relaxer for ease of distributing andsmoothing through the hair, ease of rinsing, after-treatment feel of thewet and dry hair, sheen and manageability.

In another salon test, 52 persons having medium to coarse hair receiveda no-lye hair relaxer procedure with no-lye hair relaxer HR-A, ofExample 6. The product was applied generally following knownhair-relaxing procedures described earlier. The results again showedthat the consistency of the hair relaxer HR-A, was very workable throughthe hair, judged not too firm or too soft, gave good relaxation resultsand made the hair soft, and easy to comb.

In a third salon test, five persons received a hair-relaxer procedure ina half-head comparison between a commercial no-base, no-lye cream andCream Base II of Example 2. Each no-lye cream was mixed with thecommercial activator supplied, which was generally similar to activator(X) of Example 6, and the resulting hair relaxer applied according tothe manufacturer's directions.

The results showed that the consistency of the hair relaxer preparedwith Cream Base II and its rinsing and after-treatment effect on thehair was substantially equivalent to the commercial product.

The present invention has been described generally and with respect topreferred embodiments. It will be understood that modifications andvariations of the disclosed method and compositions may be made withoutdeparting from the spirit and scope of the novel concept of the presentinvention.

What is claimed is:
 1. A highly alkaline oil-in-water emulsion cream product, said cream product:(a) being stable to phase separation on storage aging, (b) containing non-volatile inorganic alkaline material to provide a pH of above about 12, said alkaline material having an alkali metal cation or alkaline earth metal cation, (c) being either directly usable as a no-base hair relaxer or convertible to use as a no-base, no-lye hair relaxer when it is mixed with an aqueous activator solution, and containing a total of not more than about 50 weight percent non-water components, calculated on a dry solids basis of the total weight of said cream product,said cream product having been prepared by the steps of: (A) preparing a substantially homogeneous oil phase by heating and agitating a substantially anhydrous mixture at a temperature of about 80 degrees C. until said oil phase forms, said anhydrous mixture being comprised of the following components, each calculated on a 100 weight percent total of said cream product, dry solids basis:(i) about 15 to about 35 weight percent of a lipophilic oleaginous material; (ii) from and including zero to about 2 weight percent of a lipophilic modified hectorite clay gellant; (iii) about 3 to about 15 weight percent of a primary nonionic emulsifier, said emulsifier comprising a mixture of lipophilic fatty alcohols each having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms in its fatty carbon chain per molecule; and (iv) about 0.01 to about 1 weight percent of an auxiliary anionic emulsifier; (B) preparing a substantially homogeneous water phase by separately heating and agitating an aqueous mixture at a temperature of about 80 degrees C. until said water phase forms, said aqueous mixture being comprised of water containing the following components, each calculated on a 100 weight percent total of said cream product, dry solids basis:(i) about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of said alkaline material selected from the group consisting of water-soluble alkali metal hydroxide and alkaline earth hydroxide, provided that, when said alkaline material is alkali metal hydroxide it is separately dissolved in a portion of said water and the resulting alkaline aqueous solution is initially withheld; (ii) about 0.05 to about 10 weight percent of auxiliary water-soluble emulsifiers inclusive of the amount of said anionic emulsifier present in said oil phase, said emulsifiers comprising a mixture of a hydrophilic nonionic emulsifier and an amphoteric or zwitterionic emulsifier; (iii) about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of a water-soluble polyhydroxy compound having about 3 to about 6 carbon atoms per molecule; and (iv) from and including zero to about 5 weight percent of a polymeric quaternary nitrogen conditioning agent; (C) slowly admixing said resulting so heated water phase into said resulting so heated oil phase to produce a heated composition; (D) thereafter mixing and maintaining said heated composition at a temperature of about 80 degrees C. until a substantially homogeneous and uniform emulsion is formed; (E) thereafter sequentially cooling said emulsion to a temperature below about 55 degrees C., and, if withheld in said step (B), then admixing therein said resulting alkaline aqueous solution and then agitating said emulsion until a relatively viscous emulsion cream composition forms; and (F) thereafter cooling said resulting emulsion cream composition relatively rapidly to ambient room temperature until said emulsion cream product results.
 2. The emulsion cream product of claim 1, wherein when said alkaline material in said step (B) is an alkaline earth hydroxide, said emulsion cream product is convertible to a no-base, no-lye relaxer when it is admixed with an aqueous liquid activator.
 3. The emulsion cream product of claim 1 wherein said alkaline material withheld in said step (B) and then added in said step (E) is an alkali metal hydroxide and said emulsion cream is directly usable as a no-base hair relaxer.
 4. The emulsion cream product of claim 1 having a Brookfield viscosity at about 25 degrees C. of at least 100,000 to greater than 900,000 centipoises.
 5. The emulsion cream product of claim 4 wherein said viscosity is maintained after storage aging at a temperature of about 45 degrees C. for about 3 to about 6 months.
 6. The so-cooled emulsion cream product of claim 1 being homogenized in a step following said step (F).
 7. The emulsion cream product of claim 6, wherein when said alkaline material in said step (B) is an alkaline earth hydroxide, said emulsion cream product is convertible to a no-base, no-lye relaxer when it is admixed with an aqueous liquid activator.
 8. The emulsion cream product of claim 6 wherein said alkaline material withheld in said step (B) and then added in said step (E) is an alkali metal hydroxide and said emulsion cream is directly usable as a no-base hair relaxer.
 9. The emulsion cream product of claim 6 having a Brookfield viscosity at about 25 degrees C. of at least 100,000 to greater than 900,000 centipoises.
 10. The emulsion cream product of claim 9 wherein said viscosity is maintained after storage aging at a temperature of about 45 degrees C. for about 3 to about 6 months.
 11. The emulsion cream product of claim 1 wherein in said step B, said polyhydroxy compound is not added and wherein said polyhydroxy compound is alternatively added in said step (D), and said mixing is continued until said emulsion is formed.
 12. The emulsion cream product of claim 11, wherein when said alkaline material in said step (B) is an alkaline earth hydroxide, said emulsion cream product is convertible to a no-base, no-lye relaxer when it is admixed with an aqueous liquid activator.
 13. The emulsion cream product of claim 11 wherein said alkaline material withheld in said step (B) and then added in said step (E) is an alkali metal hydroxide and said emulsion cream is directly usable as a no-base hair relaxer.
 14. The emulsion cream product of claim 11 having a Brookfield viscosity at about 25 degrees C. of at least 100,000 to greater than 900,000 centipoises.
 15. The emulsion cream product of claim 14 wherein said viscosity is maintained after storage aging at a temperature of about 45 degrees C. for about 3 to about 6 months. 